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I made another trip to haute outpost Rosendale's in the Short North. As with previous visits, I was wowed by the beautiful synthesis of atmosphere, service and cuisine.

I have covered the accolades earned by the Rosendale's staff in previous posts, so I won't bore you here by parading out the awards here for another go-round. Just know that the list is long and well deserved.

The service provided (for the second time) by Molly was fantastic. She did a tremendous job addressing my vegetarian concerns, and even took the time to suggest that I should allow the chef to create a vegetarian special as an entree rather than settling for the pasta dish on the menu. She was not wrong at all as the dish was fantastic (more on that in later paragraphs).

The bread is always served with a selection of butters. The house made selection was a delicious creation flecked with pink sea salt.

The goat cheese appetizer prepared with golden beets and candied walnuts was an exercise in contrasts. Three different morsels of goat cheese individually treated with smoked paprika, walnuts and fresh rosemary, were prepared on a pomegranate gelee which was vegetarian because it was made with agar. The final treat in the dish was the addition of a goat cheese sorbet on a basil leaf which provided a fitting palate cleanser.

The contrasting ingredients on the main entree, on the other hand, were potatoes. Four different shades of potatoes from the chef's garden were prepared on a bed of microgreens, fiddleheads and tomatoes in a garlic tomato reduction.

The colors in the dish made it a visual pleasure, and the flavors were delightful. When paired with a glass of Newton Claret, the harmony of the ingredients settled beautifully.

The wine list and cocktails at Rosendale's are still outstanding. By-the-glass wine selections are great. As I have said before, any place with Chateau La Nerthe Chateuneuf-du-Pape by the glass gets an A+ in my book no matter what else happens at the meal. Luckily, Rosendale's didn't need the free pass.

It is easy enough to make a choice to match whatever you decide to eat, and sommelier Chris Dillman is more than capable of tracking down the best possible fermented grape juice to compliment whatever dining choices you make. For those who prefer beer or liquor, there is a small selection of import and micro brews, as well as an extensive selection of top shelf booze. The Scotch selections are exemplary.

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