02 May 2009

True


My trip to the Gulf Coast started off with a stop at Wesley True's restaurant in Mobile, Alabama. True (the chef) is a Gordon Ramsey alum aiming to bring a Manhattan dining experience to the Alabama shore. True (the restaurant) is an artfully appointed attraction in a modern style that showcases an exceptional attention to detail.

Like the majority of the restaurants in the Old South, True's menu is big on seafood and other denizens of the animal kingdom. However, the best kept secret is that the sous chef David Rowe and his wife are both vegans, and they take great care in presenting vegetarian courses that shine as brightly as the items on the regular menu. It is recommended that you call ahead for vegetarian options (as it is with most restaurants in Alabama and Louisiana).

The amuse bouche was mangoes, walnuts and goat cheese presented on a silver teaspoon. The fruity sweetness was tempered by the cheese's acidity, and the nuts provided a great textural contrast to the softness of the other ingredients.

The salad consisted of haricot verts, hearts of palm and chives in a creamy dressing. The presentation was as dazzling as the flavor.

The main course was pan fried quinoa patties on a foundation of red peppers, zucchini, green olives and ginger. The red sauce was sweet, and the green sauce was light and herbal. The quinoa was crispy and delicious.

True has a great wine list, as you would expect from a Wine Spectator Grand Award winner. The Monday special features the house red and white wines with free refills for $11. The cocktails and sake selections are also very nice.

The service was exceptional. The server (Taylor) did an admirable job considering the bustling nature of the restaurant.


True


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